By Jennifer Shi, 2023-24 McCall MacBain International Fellow in South Korea
I arrived in South Korea twelve weeks ago with little expectations, just my two (slightly) overweight checked luggage, an open mind and heart. Oh, and exactly two Korean phrases in my vocabulary: “Annyeonghaseyo” and “Kamsahamnida.” Fortunately, after fifteen hours of intensive Korean courses each week over the past few months, I can now understand much more than “Hello” and “Thank you,” and may therefore function better in society.
Because I am visibly East Asian, Koreans always mistake me for a local and greet me in Korean. I love that I blend in effortlessly in this homogenous country, although some locals are always confused when I inevitably pull out Papago, the Korean version of Google Translate, once the conversation gets too advanced for my current language capabilities.
“You’re not Korean?”
“No, I’m Canadian. Canada-saram!”
“Wow, really? What’s Canada like?”
“It’s small!”
I always tell Koreans that Canada is “small”, to which they always laugh, because I’m ridiculous aren’t I? Canada is the second-largest country in the world.
But to me, Canada is small and South Korea is big. Despite our land mass, Canada is only home to roughly 38 million people, while South Korea’s population is closer to 52 million. There are around 10 million people living in Seoul alone!
Seoul is incredibly big; it can take over one hour to get from one neighbourhood to another. I’m lucky enough that my homestay is only a 30-minute commute to my language school in Gangnam. My language school is a hagwon, a Korean term for a for-profit private educational institution. New students come and go each week, and I have met no shortage of interesting people who come to Seoul to study Korean for a wide variety of reasons: K-pop fanatics, League of Legends fanatics, aspiring tour guides, students on a gap year, middle-aged adults who have quit their jobs… the reasons are endless, but everyone undoubtedly shares one thing in common: we all fall in love with Seoul.
Indeed, in a city as big as Seoul, there is always something for anyone and everyone. Baseball matches; Seoul Fashion Week; an international firework festival at the Han River; a drone show at the Han River; League of Legends world championships; a new exhibition at the COEX mall each week… No matter where your interests lie, you will find your place in this dazzling city. I have found it so incredibly exciting to be in a city with so much going on, so much to see, and to experience.
Seoul is incredibly big and busy, and it can be easy to feel like a drop in the ocean with all the hustle and bustle. Still, even small moments in this big city can feel so magical.
In a city of 10 million, my local convenience store manager recognises me, sometimes even throwing in an additional product for free at checkout. Yes, I am a regular at the CU (one of South Korea’s staple convenience store chains) across my building and proud.
Even after a long shift at the hospital, my host auntie will always offer me fruit, milk, or a home-cooked meal when I arrive at home. Now that my Korean has improved significantly, I feel very accomplished when I can hold a longer conversation with her, especially considering how far I’ve come from when I first arrived in South Korea.
During Chuseok, the South Korean Thanksgiving, a local friend generously took our group of foreign friends on a very well-guided hike through Bukhansan, which is a beautiful mountain in Seoul with gorgeous views that is easily accessible by the Seoul metro! The hike was followed by a traditional dinner to celebrate the special day. Another local friend brought me to my first Korean baseball game, introducing me to Korean-style baseball game food and team chants. The cheering culture here is truly unrivalled to anywhere else!
These instances are just a few examples that cannot begin to capture the friendliness that I have encountered during my stay here. In a city as metropolitan as Seoul, I am lucky to have met so many lovely and kind people that have shared with me many authentic and local experiences.
Seoul to me is big, as much as it is kind and welcoming. I am happy to now call this place home, and I look forward to the months to come.